Refer to the table below to see a listing of some mushroom species that have been used for making dyes.
Although in Australia only a few species have been tested for usefulness as a dye, the following list has been confirmed by Bougher & Syme (1998) below.
Browns: Scleroderma areolatum, Pisolithus sp. Cortinarius basirubescens
Greens: Anthracophyllum archeri and Daldinia concentrica
Orange & Yellow: Pycnoporus coccineus (rusty orange), Piptoporus australiensis (orange), Gymnopilus austrosaineus (yellow), Dermocybe splendida (stems produce yellow, orange)
Red: Dermocybe splendida (cap produce magenta, maroon, lavender or apricot depending on mordant used) Salmon Pink from entire mushroom.
There is a great book called The Rainbow Beneath My Feet
By Arleen and Alan Bessette exploring the use of fungi as dyes which includes over 200 photographs. It is available through the Fungi Perfecti website.
DYEING INSTRUCTIONS adapted from those for dyeing with native plants
1. In order to dye using mushroom materials you need to first scour the wool by removing any impurities by soaking the wool in cold water overnight then rinsing several times in cold water. In very hot water, immerse the wool several times also using a detergent for wool. Rinse several times.
2.You then need to add a mordant in order to 'fix' the colour. Further down are a variety of mordant receipes and instructions for how to use them when dying wool.
3. Basic dye method: For dying with lichens mordant is not required and lichens, dried material, and bark are better to leave soaking for a day prior to dyeing. Berries should be crushed, long slow simmer produces richer colours.
3a. It is important to dampen the wool thoroughly, whether mordanted or not, before adding to any dyebath. The damp wool may be added at the same time as the vegetation.
3b. Cut up roughly the vegatation to be used, place it in the dyepot, cover with water, and let it simmer for one to two hours. If you don't want to have the plant material in with the wool, you can make the dye and strain it, add the wool, then return the dyebath to boiling point, and let it simmer for an additional thirty minutes.
The ratio for making the dyebath is: 0.57 litres of water : 28.35 grams dye material : 14.17 grams mordanted wool
3c. Stir frequently. Cover your vessel to prevent evaporation.
4. Enamel, glass or stainless steel vessels are recommended for use as they do not chemically alter the dye, like aluminium or iron dyepots. Rinse the dyed wool first in hot and then in cooler water, Keep rinsing until the water is clear. Squeeze out carefully and dry in the shade. Spun wool should be dried at slight tension. Alternatively leave the wool to cool in the dyebath and rinse in cold water.
The information provided is sourced from the following book: The Handweavers and Spinners Guild of Victoria 1976 Dyemaking with Australian Flora, Rigby, Melbourne.